Biscotti Revisited

The first batch of my Nan’s biscotti I made (right n’ya) were gone faster than a stack of dollar bills at a strip club, a Florida strip club mind you! No lap dances or topless twister, but they were so damn good I was “forced” to make them again only 10 days later. This second time around I reduced the sugar from 1 3/4 cups to only 1 1/2 and created much smaller loafs, only about 1.5″ wide, with plenty of space in between.

The result was much more akin to true Cantucci, small and crispy with a mild vanilla flavor, nutty aroma, and ideal for mourning coffee or dipping into wine after dinner. I’d imagine these will last just as long as “Cinnamon’s” top did on my batchelor party, 1 minute give or take a few items (gloves and such). I think I’ll need to make more for Easter this weekend, maybe dial down on the stripper metaphors tho…

Celeri-crack

See what I did there? I met Hal from CaryCitizen again last Friday to go exploring in Cary’s grocery stores for round 2 of my column in CaryCitizen, In The Supermarkets. This week I chose Fresh Market off of Cary Parkway. Seeing as how Fresh Market is typically the first to bring in seasonal produce, of the upmost quality I might add, I figured this would be a cake walk. Among springs newbies were berries, tangelos, mangos, eggplant, and Celeriac the size of a softball. The choice was unexpected to say the least.

Celeriac or Celery Root (depending on how cool the producer wants to sound) is just what it seems: the bulbous root of celery. It may look like a shrunken head, but this lumpy  brown mass holds a sweet, pearly white treasure inside. Along with pork belly, short ribs, and macarons, root vegetables such as celeriac or parsley root have become all the rage. Don’t believe me? Just watch an episode of Top Chef, one of those pompous, foie gras loving egomaniacs churns Celeriac into a puree on the reg. That being said, it’s because the ugly bastards are delicious with a subtle flavor of celery and texture all it’s own.

Unlike other root vegetables, Celeriac only has 5% starch making it light and crispy when served raw. Thus, I give you my recipe:

Cold Celeriac and Apple Salad

1 Large Celery Root

1 Granny Smith Apple

1 Handful Italian Parsley, chopped

1 Lemon

Pinch of Sugar

Olive Oil (best quality), Salt, Pepper, Sesame Seeds

Start by peeling the Celeriac. I turn this into a game where I try to waste as little of the flesh as possible, it really hones the knife skills. When complete, the previously garrish looking root is transformed into a brilliant ivory globe of inteweaving swirls, who knew?!

Cut the Celeriac into 1/4″ slices, then into match sticks and place into a bowl. Follow the same steps for the Apple creating matchsticks of identical size. Dress the Celeriac and Apple with the juice of 1 Lemon, an equal dose of olive oil, pinch of salt, pinch of sugar, a small pinch of pepper, and the chopped handful of parsley.

When plating, sprinkle a generous amount of sesame seeds on top and dig in!

This dish gets better and better as it sits and marries in the fridge, but I enjoyed mine seconds after making. The Celeriac is crunchy but tender, with a light celery flavor but also reminiscent of fresh coconut in taste and texture. The Granny Smith’s tart bite lends perfectly to the mellowness of the Celeriac, with the lemon juice adding extra acidity. The sesame seeds are the unsung heroes of the dish, toasted and nutty they really round out the recipe.

I initially was going to write that you wouldn’t want to eat a whole plate of this stuff…but I ate 2, so I guess I screwed the pooch on that one. It works all alone, as a cold salad next to a bbq sandwich, or even as a refreshing plate in-between courses to recharge the taste buds.

I hope this inspires some of you to give those Fugly plants or roots you find at the store a chance, some of them are incredibly tasty and require nothing more than some minor knife skills and creativity.

Spring Love & Sitti

Spring love is in the air and this warm weekend was spent in celebration of our friends Rachel and John who got engaged on Friday. Congratulazioni you two! We all met Friday night for some drinks at Foundation in downtown, a brick-covered, subterranean watering hole with some very creative cocktails and local brews.

Saturday, however, was the real hoorah, a full day of celebration basking in spring’s new warm weather. The temperature was a gorgeous 75 during the late afternoon as we sat on John’s porch sipping Retsina out of a “I Love Jesus” juice cup and smoking cigars watching the day slip by (just like the apostles did!).

As the afternoon’s fuzzy feeling started to grow, our stomachs began to rumble and a big group dinner was in store. Our party of 12 ventured downtown again to dine at Sitti, a Lebanese style restaurant run by the folks who own Neomonde here in Morrisville. Located at the corner of Hargett and Wilmington, Sitti is a large contemporary space full of Mediterranean and Middle-Eastern motifs with warm, earthy hues creating a very comfortable atmosphere. Our wait was short and soon we were all sat at the one large table in the middle of the restaurant. I enjoyed a jet-cold bottle of Efes, a Turkish beer, which was sweet and bright like an Asian rice beer, really good!

Soon the appetizers, or mezze, were flowing across the table: fresh hummus, stuffed grape leaves, marinated feta, fried Halloumi cheese with dates, and thick greek yogurt drizzled with olive oil and herbs (above). The hummus was full of lemon and fresh garlic, the marinated feta had a great smokey flavor due to the roasted peppers mixed in, and our yogurt was tangy and refreshing, a perfect way to wake and excite the taste buds. Everything was served with copious amounts of freshly baked pita bread and Sitti’s addictive sumac-herb oil. I could eat this stuff by the truckload.

It’s also nice to watch the cooks at work behind the large glass kitchen windows, everything tastes, smells, and looks very fresh.

On to the mains: Grilled Filet with toasted-almond rice, Salmon with a mint-tahini-jalapeno sauce, Stewed Lamb atop rice with fried phyllo and whipped garlic-yogurt, and my personal choice of Braised Lamb Shank with whipped potatoes and veggies. There were plenty of others dishes on the table, but these were the only ones I tried so…The fillet was flavorful but overcooked. The salmon was to die for, a perfectly mid-rare filet smothered in a creamy sauce with just the right amount of heat and zip. The stewed lamb was also delicious, tho incredibly rich thanks to the fried phyllo and thick yogurt, but everyone cleared their plates regardless.

My shank was the thing of dreams. A Flintstone size hunk of moist, succulent meat, falling off the bone with almost no applied pressure, drizzled in it’s own drippings and lain atop a pile of silky potatoes to catch all of the juices. The veggies, undercooked, as usual it seems. This has been the third or fourth time I’ve paid more than I’d like for a beautifully cooked piece of meat only to be accompanied by a lack-luster side of veggies. What’s so hard? You barely have to do anything, just toss them in with the shanks for gods sake! Sorry, baby vegetables, especially undercooked, seem to be a pet peeve I didn’t know I had until recently…

Aside from the piss poor veg, the meal was absolutely spot-on and not at a terrible cost either. The service was fast and transparent, just the way a good server should be, and everyone left feeling filled to the brim. We managed to squeeze down a couple orders of Baklava too, well worth it! Unfortunately, our expansive dinner high in garlic, herbs, and lamb meat left a few of our party feeling slightly “uneasy” if you get my drift. No complaints over the food tho. The verdict:

Sitti: YUP!

Again I’d like to congratulate our friends Rachel and John on an exciting engagement! We wish you guys all the best in your new life together and can’t wait for the beach wedding, I’m gonna paddle into the reception in a custom-made tuxedo wetsuit. It’s the least I can do.

Kitchen Tunes III

It’s Friday and I’m ready for a great selection of tunes to kick start this most righteous of weekends. The warm weather and new arrivals at the farmers market have me feeling all groovy inside, so let’s start this off shall we:

Jimi Hendrix: Hear My Music

Speaking of groovy, Hear My Music was released in 2004 containing a bunch of instrumental and b-side tracks of Hendrix from early 1969. A potluck of killer tracks, a mix of a couple blues songs followed by 3 haunting instrumentals that have had me spell bound for 2 or 3 months now. This album reminds me why Hendrix is my all time favorite musician, he used the guitar as an extension of his body and in no song is that more clear than this album’s version of Valley’s of Neptune. It’s surreal, rhythmic and full of tone, each lead or walk an act of genius. Play on, Play on…

Cee-Lo: Cee-lo Green…Is The Soul Machine

This was Cee-Lo’s second solo studio album and some of his best work, aside from Gnarls Barkley. The album is upbeat, diverse, and crammed with funky ass beats that just make you want to move your feet. Some songs are jazzy, others pure funk, a couple heavy raps, and then some real mellow grooves. The drums are wild too, I would play drums along with this album everyday after class my Senior year of college. As soon as the weather started to warm up, this was the first album I grabbed for: windows down, volume cranked, I probably looked ridiculous.

David Bowie: Let’s Dance

When my band, Sheep Suit, was practicing a few weeks ago my brother reminded me of just how great this song/album is. How cool is Bowie? You just can’t get much cooler than this guy, and Let’s Dance seems like his own personal weekend dance party mix. Imagine being at one of his dance parties, body paint and panties all over the place…Too cool. The album is all energy, a florescent booze-cruise of Eighties sound effects with Bowie at the helm, this boat is a rockin’.

The Last Shadow Puppets: The Age Of The Understatement

Here’s my “new music” choice for this edition of Kitchen Tunes. The Last Shadow Puppets consists of Arctic Monkey’s leadman Alex Turner and Miles Kane of The Rascals. Owen Pallet (of the London Orchestra) was brought in to compose the strings for each track and it really makes this album BIG. Alex and Miles are prodigy songwriters. Each track feels like a scene from some epic play: big orchestra lines, booming tremolo-dripping guitar, lots of tambourine, and great harmonies. “Standing Next To Me” is possibly the most brilliant piece of music I’ve heard out of England in the past couple of years, no shit. A tragic compilation full of women, grief, and survival this album feels more like the score to a Cold War drama then the work of two British indy rockers. I hope these guys continue to make albums together, I can imagine nothing short of gold coming from The Last Shadow Puppets. Cheers!

Have a killer weekend everybody, if you start by playing Cee Lo it’s a lock, just saying.

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

That picture took me something like 1000 steps to get, so you’re welcome. My buddy Schrieber (who will guest post for sure this summer) was studying in Rome while I was in Firenze back in ’06, and I stopped in for a weekend on my way down to Sicily. Schriebs, being Mr.On-Point, showed me around like royalty and I fell in love with this most eternal of cities, especially it’s cuisine.

Talk about Roman cuisine, this is possibly the most famous of modern (and by that I mean post Renaissance) Roman pasta dishes. Traditionally made with Guanciale, cured pork jowl, it’s just as easily prepared with high quality Pancetta. Don’t use bacon, tho, because the smokey flavor will take over the whole dish, and that is not good Roman eats. I make this pasta at least once a month, especially for a quick lunch when it’s warm out and I need something fresh and spicy to get me moving.  Bucatini also happens to be my favorite pasta of all time, what could be better than a plate full of semolina straws to suck up all of the delectable sauce?

Bucatini all’Amatriciana

1lb Bucatini (also goes by Bucati or Perciatelli)

1 Can San Marzano Plum Tomatoes

4-5 Large Garlic Cloves

1/4″ Slab of Pancetta or Guanciale

1/2 Red Onion, Diced

Lots of Chile Flake, Pecorino Romano, Salt and Pepper to taste

Start by placing the pancetta into the freezer for 30 minutes or so, this will make it really easy to cut. Start bringing a large pot of salted water to a boil for the pasta.

Cut the Pancetta into thin lardons as the silly French would call them, basically match sticks, and add to a saute pan with a little olive oil and a heavy dose of chile flakes on medium heat. In the meantime, dice the onion and slice the garlic into the thinnest slices possible (think Goodfellas). Once the Pancetta has begun to crisp add the garlic and saute until light-golden brown. Add the onion and saute until transparent.

Add the tomatoes ( I used my Nan’s food mill to crush the whole tomatoes but you can use the back of a spoon) and continue to cook on medium heat for 10-12 minutes or until pasta is ready.

Add the pasta to the water when it’s begun to boil rapidly. Make sure you add plenty of salt to the water too, it should taste like the ocean as I’ve said before. When the pasta is perfectly al dente, using tongs, transfer to the sauce and allow to cook for 1-2 minutes in the sauce. The water inside the tubes of pasta will help bind the Amatriciana together. Serve with an extra drizzle of olive oil and lots of Pecorino Romano.

The story goes that the farmers of Lazio’s hills would carry their home-cured Guanciale on their belts as they traveled from field to field. When dinner time came all they had to do was lop off a piece of the Guanciale, mix in some wild garlic, fresh tomatoes and top with a heavy sprinkle of Pecorino. I am really trying to bring the hip-bacon back.

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